Metal cover for heat lamp is bolted into the wall with heat reflective panel.
How to decide whether you need a heater in your hen house, pro's and con's of various heat sources, and if you decide you do need a heater we have a list of best buys on heaters for hen houses, coops, sheds, and barns.
Why you may need heat in your hen house
Many people do not use heater's in their hen houses during the winter months due to the fact that chickens can raise their body temperature to stay warm by eating more feed. It is a proven fact that colder than average temperatures, result in less egg production, illness, and frostbite. Due to skyrocketing feed and utilities cost it is now more economical to consider heating your hen house using solar power which will eliminate an electric bill, increase egg production, and reduce the amount of damage chickens suffer from frostbite. If you are raising meat birds under 3 weeks old your birds could get Ascites Syndrome (water belly)and die, if they get cold stress. If you are raising baby chicks you need to keep them warm or they will die-brooders should be kept at 95-100 degrees for the first two weeks of life and reduced 5 degrees each week until a month old.
Most standard breeds of chickens can withstand cold temperatures as long as they have an enclosed coop and good North wind block. How big your coop is and how many chickens you have in it can determine whether your birds will get too cold or not overnight. For example, if you only have a few hens and no rooster in a large hen house with no wind block your hens will probably get quite cold and could suffer frostbite or cold stress which can cause a loss in egg production, frostbite and even death. If you have many birds in a well ventilated hen house which can be closed off from the elements the chickens will huddle together to stay warm.
Pro's and con's of various types of heat, safety tips, compare quality, price, and you can even read customer reviews before you buy!
How much heat do you need for your coop?A normal adult chicken maintain's a body temperature of 105-107˚F (40.6 to 41.7˚C). The thermo-neutral zone is 65-75˚F (18-24˚C).Your hen house temperature should not go below 32 degrees F or above 85 degrees F. Keeping your coop between these temperatures will keep your chickens from getting too cold or too hot. Your chickens will stay healthier, be more comfortable, and will have less stress which means more eggs.When hen's get to cold or too hot they may slow egg production or stop altogether. How much heat you need for your coop depends on the size, the climate you live in, how many birds are in your hen house, and whether your coop is insulated or not. Insulation will keep your coop cooler in the summer and warmer during the winter months. The opening door for your coop should open from the South or East side. Doors that stay open during the day will let in too much cold air if they face the North. For large sheds, hen houses, coops and barns you may wish to consider industrial size heaters.Industrial Farm Heaters.
Safety first! If you decide to heat your coop with a heat lamp or other type of heater, put it in a secure hanging cage where the chickens cannot get on top of it or topple it and be sure to place it at least 3 feet from anything flammable.
How to tell if your coop is too cold or too hot for your chickens
You can use a temperature gauge that measures temperature and humidity to determine if your hen house temperature and humidity are at the correct levels. A good rule of thumb, If your chickens are panting, they are too hot. If your chickens are huddling together they are too cold. If you live in a warm climate where temperatures do not go below 32 degrees F. there is probably no need to worry about getting a heater for your hen house. However, if you live in an area where temps. drop below 32 degrees F. or you have had problems with your chickens developing frostbite, producing less eggs, and even dying from the cold-it is time to consider getting a heater for your hen house. You should keep an indoor thermometer inside your coop and check it daily so that your chickens do not get too hot, too cold, or are exposed to extreme temperature changes which can make them sick or worse. If your chickens get to cold they can easily develop symptoms of frostbite and can even die. Recommended year round temperature requirements for optimal egg production in laying hens is 21c or 75F degrees. It is important to monitor the humidity levels in poultry houses and chicken coops. Humidity levels should be between 40% and 60%. Too much moisture in the air can cause damp or wet litter/bedding which in turn can create high ammonia concentrations which lead to serious health issues such as, Cecal Coccidiosis, enteric disease, breathing and respiratory problems. See more about heating hen houses below.
Why you may need heat in your hen house
Many people do not use heater's in their hen houses during the winter months due to the fact that chickens can raise their body temperature to stay warm by eating more feed. It is a proven fact that colder than average temperatures, result in less egg production, illness, and frostbite. Due to skyrocketing feed and utilities cost it is now more economical to consider heating your hen house using solar power which will eliminate an electric bill, increase egg production, and reduce the amount of damage chickens suffer from frostbite. If you are raising meat birds under 3 weeks old your birds could get Ascites Syndrome (water belly)and die, if they get cold stress. If you are raising baby chicks you need to keep them warm or they will die-brooders should be kept at 95-100 degrees for the first two weeks of life and reduced 5 degrees each week until a month old.
Most standard breeds of chickens can withstand cold temperatures as long as they have an enclosed coop and good North wind block. How big your coop is and how many chickens you have in it can determine whether your birds will get too cold or not overnight. For example, if you only have a few hens and no rooster in a large hen house with no wind block your hens will probably get quite cold and could suffer frostbite or cold stress which can cause a loss in egg production, frostbite and even death. If you have many birds in a well ventilated hen house which can be closed off from the elements the chickens will huddle together to stay warm.
Pro's and con's of various types of heat, safety tips, compare quality, price, and you can even read customer reviews before you buy!
How much heat do you need for your coop?A normal adult chicken maintain's a body temperature of 105-107˚F (40.6 to 41.7˚C). The thermo-neutral zone is 65-75˚F (18-24˚C).Your hen house temperature should not go below 32 degrees F or above 85 degrees F. Keeping your coop between these temperatures will keep your chickens from getting too cold or too hot. Your chickens will stay healthier, be more comfortable, and will have less stress which means more eggs.When hen's get to cold or too hot they may slow egg production or stop altogether. How much heat you need for your coop depends on the size, the climate you live in, how many birds are in your hen house, and whether your coop is insulated or not. Insulation will keep your coop cooler in the summer and warmer during the winter months. The opening door for your coop should open from the South or East side. Doors that stay open during the day will let in too much cold air if they face the North. For large sheds, hen houses, coops and barns you may wish to consider industrial size heaters.Industrial Farm Heaters.
Safety first! If you decide to heat your coop with a heat lamp or other type of heater, put it in a secure hanging cage where the chickens cannot get on top of it or topple it and be sure to place it at least 3 feet from anything flammable.
How to tell if your coop is too cold or too hot for your chickens
You can use a temperature gauge that measures temperature and humidity to determine if your hen house temperature and humidity are at the correct levels. A good rule of thumb, If your chickens are panting, they are too hot. If your chickens are huddling together they are too cold. If you live in a warm climate where temperatures do not go below 32 degrees F. there is probably no need to worry about getting a heater for your hen house. However, if you live in an area where temps. drop below 32 degrees F. or you have had problems with your chickens developing frostbite, producing less eggs, and even dying from the cold-it is time to consider getting a heater for your hen house. You should keep an indoor thermometer inside your coop and check it daily so that your chickens do not get too hot, too cold, or are exposed to extreme temperature changes which can make them sick or worse. If your chickens get to cold they can easily develop symptoms of frostbite and can even die. Recommended year round temperature requirements for optimal egg production in laying hens is 21c or 75F degrees. It is important to monitor the humidity levels in poultry houses and chicken coops. Humidity levels should be between 40% and 60%. Too much moisture in the air can cause damp or wet litter/bedding which in turn can create high ammonia concentrations which lead to serious health issues such as, Cecal Coccidiosis, enteric disease, breathing and respiratory problems. See more about heating hen houses below.
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Ways to Heat Your Hen House or Chicken Coop Without Electricity
There are several ways you can get heat into your coop without using electricity and here are the pro's and con's of each.
Hay
Hay bales can be stacked all around the outside of your chicken coop and if your coop is big enough you can put them along the walls on the inside as well and put a thick layer on the floor of the coop. This method has been used by farmers for centuries to keep their cows, chickens and other livestock warm even during the coldest winters. In the Spring the hay can be removed from inside the coop and put into your compost pile for use in your garden. The bad part about using hay is that rodents like to nest in hay but if you have a good coop cat or battery powered mouse or rat zappers you shouldn't have to many rodent problems.
Hot Water Bottles
People have long used the old red rubber hot water bottles to heat their beds during cold winter months and believe it or not these work very well for small chicken coops as well. I have put a shelf behind my roosting bars and lay hot water bottles end to end on the shelf. This provides the chickens with heat while they are on the roost. The only real problem with heating with hot water bottles is that if you get the cheap one's made of plastic they will not stay hot very long. The thick rubber hot water bottles will stay hot through the night. My chickens love them so much they quit roosting on the roosting bars and started roosting on the hot water bottles. They are easy to clean off though. The other downside of using hot water bottles is that you will have to refill them once in the morning and once in the evening.
You can also recycle old two or 3 liter soda bottles by filling them with hot water and putting them along the walls of your coop. The bottles will give off some heat and your chickens will huddle by them if they get cold.
Hay
Hay bales can be stacked all around the outside of your chicken coop and if your coop is big enough you can put them along the walls on the inside as well and put a thick layer on the floor of the coop. This method has been used by farmers for centuries to keep their cows, chickens and other livestock warm even during the coldest winters. In the Spring the hay can be removed from inside the coop and put into your compost pile for use in your garden. The bad part about using hay is that rodents like to nest in hay but if you have a good coop cat or battery powered mouse or rat zappers you shouldn't have to many rodent problems.
Hot Water Bottles
People have long used the old red rubber hot water bottles to heat their beds during cold winter months and believe it or not these work very well for small chicken coops as well. I have put a shelf behind my roosting bars and lay hot water bottles end to end on the shelf. This provides the chickens with heat while they are on the roost. The only real problem with heating with hot water bottles is that if you get the cheap one's made of plastic they will not stay hot very long. The thick rubber hot water bottles will stay hot through the night. My chickens love them so much they quit roosting on the roosting bars and started roosting on the hot water bottles. They are easy to clean off though. The other downside of using hot water bottles is that you will have to refill them once in the morning and once in the evening.
You can also recycle old two or 3 liter soda bottles by filling them with hot water and putting them along the walls of your coop. The bottles will give off some heat and your chickens will huddle by them if they get cold.
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Various Types of Chicken Coop Heaters Pro's & Con's
If you do decide to use a heater of some type in your chicken coop or hen house it is advisable to remove all flammable nesting materials and bedding and replace them with rubber nesting pads and use play sand for floor bedding. Any heater that uses a fan needs to be cleaned daily. Check wiring and condition of heaters daily.
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Solar Powered Heat
Pro's-Solar electricity is an ideal way to heat and cool your coop because it saves you money on energy costs and is better for our environment. If you use a 100 watt solar panel with controller and connect it to a Lifepo marine battery and connect that battery to a second Lifepo marine battery you can power low watt chicken coop heater (if you have a 1000-2000 watt inverter to plug it into) or you can just connect a Road pro heater directly to one of the batteries. The heater will run all night and during the day. You can add additional solar panels and batteries for more power and to make it last longer. The solar panels power the batteries. I put the Road Pro heater in a cage where the chickens cannot sit on top of it. I use Road Pro heaters in my chicken coop, shed, and RV.
Con's-It can also be very costly to get set up with a generator and solar panels that can run a flat panel heater or low watt fan heater. If you do not have backup storage batteries for reserved power or an alternative energy source, you will not have electricity on cloudy days. Solar powered generators or solar power kits are a very economical and easy way to get started using solar energy to power your lights, heating, and cooling needs in your coop as well as your home. If you use hay for bedding dust and dander can accumulate on the back of the Road Pro heater and needs to be vacuumed off daily with a portable vacuum.
Pro's-Solar electricity is an ideal way to heat and cool your coop because it saves you money on energy costs and is better for our environment. If you use a 100 watt solar panel with controller and connect it to a Lifepo marine battery and connect that battery to a second Lifepo marine battery you can power low watt chicken coop heater (if you have a 1000-2000 watt inverter to plug it into) or you can just connect a Road pro heater directly to one of the batteries. The heater will run all night and during the day. You can add additional solar panels and batteries for more power and to make it last longer. The solar panels power the batteries. I put the Road Pro heater in a cage where the chickens cannot sit on top of it. I use Road Pro heaters in my chicken coop, shed, and RV.
Con's-It can also be very costly to get set up with a generator and solar panels that can run a flat panel heater or low watt fan heater. If you do not have backup storage batteries for reserved power or an alternative energy source, you will not have electricity on cloudy days. Solar powered generators or solar power kits are a very economical and easy way to get started using solar energy to power your lights, heating, and cooling needs in your coop as well as your home. If you use hay for bedding dust and dander can accumulate on the back of the Road Pro heater and needs to be vacuumed off daily with a portable vacuum.
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Flat Panel Heaters For Chicken Coops-Pro's & Con's
Flat panel heaters
Pro's-Chicken coop flat panel heaters are one of the safest ways to heat your hen house and if your energy source is from solar power you will find that they use less power than regular space heaters which means your power will last longer so your flat panel heaters will keep your chickens warm longer. There is less chances of your chickens getting overheated with flat panel heaters because if they get too warm they are able to simply move away from the heater. You can place the flat panel heaters on the wall behind their roosts so they will stay cozy warm. Saves on heating costs.
Uses less than 1/3 the electricity of conventional space heaters
Safe for children and pets
Con's-Cord's can get too hot. It is not advisable to use the flat panel heaters constantly. Make sure you turn them off once or twice a day to let them cool down and feel the cords several times a day to see if they are getting warm. If you use an extension cord make sure it is a very heavy duty one. From my experience heavy duty outdoor construction cords and RV extension cords work the best when running power to a chicken coop.
Another con is that most flat panel heaters are only designed to heat a small area and are not large enough to keep even a very small room warm.
It is not advisable to sit flat panel heaters on the floor of a chicken coop because chickens will perch on it, poop on it, and knock it over. Hanging flat panel heaters on the wall behind the birds perch will give them some warmth. Be sure to follow manufacture safety instructions for using and hanging flat panel heaters.
Pro's-Chicken coop flat panel heaters are one of the safest ways to heat your hen house and if your energy source is from solar power you will find that they use less power than regular space heaters which means your power will last longer so your flat panel heaters will keep your chickens warm longer. There is less chances of your chickens getting overheated with flat panel heaters because if they get too warm they are able to simply move away from the heater. You can place the flat panel heaters on the wall behind their roosts so they will stay cozy warm. Saves on heating costs.
Uses less than 1/3 the electricity of conventional space heaters
Safe for children and pets
Con's-Cord's can get too hot. It is not advisable to use the flat panel heaters constantly. Make sure you turn them off once or twice a day to let them cool down and feel the cords several times a day to see if they are getting warm. If you use an extension cord make sure it is a very heavy duty one. From my experience heavy duty outdoor construction cords and RV extension cords work the best when running power to a chicken coop.
Another con is that most flat panel heaters are only designed to heat a small area and are not large enough to keep even a very small room warm.
It is not advisable to sit flat panel heaters on the floor of a chicken coop because chickens will perch on it, poop on it, and knock it over. Hanging flat panel heaters on the wall behind the birds perch will give them some warmth. Be sure to follow manufacture safety instructions for using and hanging flat panel heaters.
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Calf House Heaters In Chicken Coops Pro's & Con's
Calf house heaters are forced air heaters which should only be used if certified for brooders and incubators that can be used with calf warmers. MedHeat offers one that has a removable, washable filters for cleaning and you can buy extra filters so you can just swap it out while you clean the dirty one. Fits safely inside brooders and incubators. With three heat settings, a plug and play cord and a steel body this is one of the safest ways to heat small chicken coops.
Heat Lamps in Chicken Coops Pro's & Con's
Heat Lamps in chicken coops can be very dangerous.
Pro's-Heat lamps put out a good amount of heat for a small coop, they are very cheap to buy and are very dangerous to use in areas where you use bedding such as hay, pine bedding or other flammable materials in nest boxes and coops.
Con's-Heat lamps if not installed correctly can burn your chicken coop down, most extension cords can get very hot and start a fire if the lamps are left on to long. Heat lamps should be plugged directly into a UL wall socket. The brackets the heat lamps come with loosen up with use and the lamp can easily fall, breaking the bulb into hot shards that will fall into the bedding or on top of your chickens. Some heat lamps come with a metal bracket over the bulb area to cushion it if the lamp falls (obviously the manufacturer knows the brackets will fail and the lamp will fall). Most of these wire brackets over the bulbs I have found to be totally useless as on impact they will pop right off.
Heat lamps usually come with brackets or mounts to hold them in place but we have heard many stories of heat lamps that have fallen into the hen house and started it on fire or broke the bulb. If a heat lamp is your only alternative be sure it is fastened securely (using a chain or bolted onto a wall with reflective shield) and preferably high up and in a old bird cage with a metal bottom where it cannot be bumped, sat on, or knocked down. You can also use electrical fence wire to securely fasten your heat lamp to the inside of a metal cage and to fasten it to ceiling hooks. You can also use a heat reflector panel on the wall and screw or bolt the heat lamp housing to it.
Do not use flammable bedding or nesting material in chicken coops when using heat lamps. Heat lamp bulbs are known to bust and the hot shards of glass can easily ignite dry bedding. Best floor bedding if you are going to use heat lamps is play sand.
Brooder lamps
Brooder lights with porcelain socket and clamps
Pro's-Heat lamps put out a good amount of heat for a small coop, they are very cheap to buy and are very dangerous to use in areas where you use bedding such as hay, pine bedding or other flammable materials in nest boxes and coops.
Con's-Heat lamps if not installed correctly can burn your chicken coop down, most extension cords can get very hot and start a fire if the lamps are left on to long. Heat lamps should be plugged directly into a UL wall socket. The brackets the heat lamps come with loosen up with use and the lamp can easily fall, breaking the bulb into hot shards that will fall into the bedding or on top of your chickens. Some heat lamps come with a metal bracket over the bulb area to cushion it if the lamp falls (obviously the manufacturer knows the brackets will fail and the lamp will fall). Most of these wire brackets over the bulbs I have found to be totally useless as on impact they will pop right off.
Heat lamps usually come with brackets or mounts to hold them in place but we have heard many stories of heat lamps that have fallen into the hen house and started it on fire or broke the bulb. If a heat lamp is your only alternative be sure it is fastened securely (using a chain or bolted onto a wall with reflective shield) and preferably high up and in a old bird cage with a metal bottom where it cannot be bumped, sat on, or knocked down. You can also use electrical fence wire to securely fasten your heat lamp to the inside of a metal cage and to fasten it to ceiling hooks. You can also use a heat reflector panel on the wall and screw or bolt the heat lamp housing to it.
Do not use flammable bedding or nesting material in chicken coops when using heat lamps. Heat lamp bulbs are known to bust and the hot shards of glass can easily ignite dry bedding. Best floor bedding if you are going to use heat lamps is play sand.
Brooder lamps
Brooder lights with porcelain socket and clamps
- Make sure it has a heat Resistant Porcelain Socket
Ceramic heaters
Ceramic heater's give off quite a bit of heat but usually need a fan to circulate the air and should be put in a place where they cannot be knocked over, sat on, or attract bedding.
Natural Gas Heat
Natural gas and propane heaters can be extremely harmful to adult chickens and deadly to baby chicks. A gas leak can kill a whole flock off in a matter of minutes. If this type of heat is used you should have the lines checked regularly. If you see your chickens gasping for air get them into fresh air immediately.
Central Heat
Most hen houses and coops do not have central heat. If you are thinking about putting central heat and air in your coop be sure that the filter's and intake are outside of the coop in a separate building. Vents will need to be high up and cleaned daily in order to keep your central heat and cooling unit working properly. (We have tried this).
Wood stoves
Wood stoves are not recommended for hen houses/chicken coops as they need to be watched, refilled and the temperature does not remain constant. If you have an area large enough that can be caged off. It is possible to use wood heat if you have a chimney. You should look for wood stoves that do not get hot on the outside and have vents at the top of the stove to release the heat into the room such as boxwood stoves which give off a more consistent heat and the fire is enclosed. At Chicken Heaven On Earth we have a three bedroom trailer house we use as a hen house and do use a large box stove to heat our hen house and it keeps it quite nice for the chickens. We had to be careful with the placement of the stove and put it on the side where the wind would not blow the chimneys down, then we wired the chimneys up with fence wire to doubly secure them. One downfall s that if the coals are not built up it may require an extra trip to load the stove in the middle of the night. The wood stove is in one room and has a large fence around it floor to ceiling so the chickens cannot have access to the stove, Interior walls were removed so the heat would circulate through the whole mobile home. A firewall and Bricks were used behind and under the box wood stove to prevent the wall or floor from getting to hot.
Warning: Loose fly away bedding or hot coals can burn your hen house to the ground in minutes. Make sure that all ashes are handled with care. Clean the ashes out regularly to ensure your stove is operating at peak performance.
Propane Heat (DO NOT USE PROPANE HEAT)
Propane heater's can be used but are not recommended for small hen houses/coops as they can tip over easily, put moisture in the air, and will create deadly fumes that can kill chickens in poorly ventilated area's, (especially baby chicks) and can cause severe respiratory problems. On top of that in very cold temperatures the propane in the tank (which must be kept outdoors) will freeze and then there will be little if any heat because the propane heater will go out and release deadly fumes in the coop. It is not recommended to use propane heat.
Commercial Heat for Hen Houses
Most commercial egg producer's heat their hen houses using propane heater's. Buying propane in bulk makes it much cheaper to heat large area's. The reason they can get away with using propane is that the area's are generally much larger and well ventilated in comparison to the average backyard hen house. Electric barn heaters are also used in some smaller commercial hen houses.
Danger's associated with heating your hen house
Heat lamps can easily ignite hay and bedding and if used should be done so only with extreme caution. Most come with mounts to put them where chickens cannot reach them, knock them over or sit on them. The mounts are not always dependable.
Ceramic heater's give off quite a bit of heat but usually need a fan to circulate the air and should be put in a place where they cannot be knocked over, sat on, or attract bedding.
Natural Gas Heat
Natural gas and propane heaters can be extremely harmful to adult chickens and deadly to baby chicks. A gas leak can kill a whole flock off in a matter of minutes. If this type of heat is used you should have the lines checked regularly. If you see your chickens gasping for air get them into fresh air immediately.
Central Heat
Most hen houses and coops do not have central heat. If you are thinking about putting central heat and air in your coop be sure that the filter's and intake are outside of the coop in a separate building. Vents will need to be high up and cleaned daily in order to keep your central heat and cooling unit working properly. (We have tried this).
Wood stoves
Wood stoves are not recommended for hen houses/chicken coops as they need to be watched, refilled and the temperature does not remain constant. If you have an area large enough that can be caged off. It is possible to use wood heat if you have a chimney. You should look for wood stoves that do not get hot on the outside and have vents at the top of the stove to release the heat into the room such as boxwood stoves which give off a more consistent heat and the fire is enclosed. At Chicken Heaven On Earth we have a three bedroom trailer house we use as a hen house and do use a large box stove to heat our hen house and it keeps it quite nice for the chickens. We had to be careful with the placement of the stove and put it on the side where the wind would not blow the chimneys down, then we wired the chimneys up with fence wire to doubly secure them. One downfall s that if the coals are not built up it may require an extra trip to load the stove in the middle of the night. The wood stove is in one room and has a large fence around it floor to ceiling so the chickens cannot have access to the stove, Interior walls were removed so the heat would circulate through the whole mobile home. A firewall and Bricks were used behind and under the box wood stove to prevent the wall or floor from getting to hot.
Warning: Loose fly away bedding or hot coals can burn your hen house to the ground in minutes. Make sure that all ashes are handled with care. Clean the ashes out regularly to ensure your stove is operating at peak performance.
Propane Heat (DO NOT USE PROPANE HEAT)
Propane heater's can be used but are not recommended for small hen houses/coops as they can tip over easily, put moisture in the air, and will create deadly fumes that can kill chickens in poorly ventilated area's, (especially baby chicks) and can cause severe respiratory problems. On top of that in very cold temperatures the propane in the tank (which must be kept outdoors) will freeze and then there will be little if any heat because the propane heater will go out and release deadly fumes in the coop. It is not recommended to use propane heat.
Commercial Heat for Hen Houses
Most commercial egg producer's heat their hen houses using propane heater's. Buying propane in bulk makes it much cheaper to heat large area's. The reason they can get away with using propane is that the area's are generally much larger and well ventilated in comparison to the average backyard hen house. Electric barn heaters are also used in some smaller commercial hen houses.
Danger's associated with heating your hen house
Heat lamps can easily ignite hay and bedding and if used should be done so only with extreme caution. Most come with mounts to put them where chickens cannot reach them, knock them over or sit on them. The mounts are not always dependable.
- We have used them by using a metal chain to secure heater's in addition to the regular mounts as well as putting them in a cage ( hung at least 24 inches from the ceiling, far from bedding) pointing away from anything flammable).
- Important Note: Be sure to check walls, nests, bedding, etc. where the direction the heat lamp is pointing for hotness.
- Do not put any heater where chickens can get on top of it
- Important Note: Chickens should not have access to heater's. Place them high and put fencing between the chickens and the heater so they do not have access to the top to roost or cannot scratch bedding up into the heater.
Safety Tips for Heating Your Hen House or Chicken Coop
Safety Tips for Heating Hen House or Chicken Coop
Safety is the number 1 priority when considering how you are going to heat your hen house. Space heater's can easily cause a fire and if they get to hot on the outside they can even burn your chickens feet if they sit on them. Most space heater's have features that shut them off if they tip over and most have fans that can easily collect dust and bedding particles which can easily catch fire.
Other Helpful Items to Consider:
Fire Alarms
If you are using a heat source you need a fire alarm. One or two fire alarms should be installed in your hen house/chicken coop. Test batteries weekly.
Fire Extinguisher's
Fire extinguisher's should be kept inside and outside of your hen house or chicken coop in case of fire. Dates should be checked regularly and extinguisher's should be inspected regularly, at least once or twice a month.
Extension Cords
If you are running an extension cord to your coop to run lighting, heaters, fans or other things it is a good idea to use solar power or wind power to run them. If you have no choice but to run an extension cord to your coop the one I have found to be the safest is a 30 Amp RV extension cord with an adapter. Regular extension cords and even outdoor and construction cords can get too hot and start a fire in your coop. RV extension cords are made to carry heavier loads and I have run flat panel heaters, heat lamps, fans, and blowers using them without the cord getting hot.
#chickencoopheaters, #prosandconsofvarioustypesofchickencoopheaters, #safechickencoopheaters, #offgridheatersforchickencoopsandhenhouses, #commissionsearned, #ChickenHeavenOnEarth
Safety is the number 1 priority when considering how you are going to heat your hen house. Space heater's can easily cause a fire and if they get to hot on the outside they can even burn your chickens feet if they sit on them. Most space heater's have features that shut them off if they tip over and most have fans that can easily collect dust and bedding particles which can easily catch fire.
- No flammable bedding or nesting material should be used in a coop where heaters are used. Play sand and rubber nesting pads for nesting boxes is a safer alternative.
- Heater's should be high up, double secured to prevent falling, and inside a cage so chickens cannot perch on them
- Electrical cords-Heater's should be plugged directly into a wall outlet and not to an extension cord or electrical cord with multiple outlets due to higher fire risks from overheated cords, melting, scorching or starting on fire. If you have to use an extension cord make sure it is a heavy duty construction cord or better and be sure to use a Thermo cube which will turn off the power if the cord gets too hot and turn it back on automatically when cords have safely cooled.
- Check heaters and cords daily for wear, damage or overheating.
- Use natural heating sources whenever possible such as surrounding your coop with hay bales when temps drop below freezing, hanging plastic two liter bottles with hot water in them near the roosts, insulating your coop, turn doors away from the North. Use insulated curtains over windows, then open curtains during the day and close them before sundown.
- Use heated hoses to keep large water barrels warm.
- Make sure coop is properly ventilated (no vents on the North side).
Other Helpful Items to Consider:
Fire Alarms
If you are using a heat source you need a fire alarm. One or two fire alarms should be installed in your hen house/chicken coop. Test batteries weekly.
Fire Extinguisher's
Fire extinguisher's should be kept inside and outside of your hen house or chicken coop in case of fire. Dates should be checked regularly and extinguisher's should be inspected regularly, at least once or twice a month.
Extension Cords
If you are running an extension cord to your coop to run lighting, heaters, fans or other things it is a good idea to use solar power or wind power to run them. If you have no choice but to run an extension cord to your coop the one I have found to be the safest is a 30 Amp RV extension cord with an adapter. Regular extension cords and even outdoor and construction cords can get too hot and start a fire in your coop. RV extension cords are made to carry heavier loads and I have run flat panel heaters, heat lamps, fans, and blowers using them without the cord getting hot.
#chickencoopheaters, #prosandconsofvarioustypesofchickencoopheaters, #safechickencoopheaters, #offgridheatersforchickencoopsandhenhouses, #commissionsearned, #ChickenHeavenOnEarth
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