Heaters for Hen Houses-Pro's & Con's. Photo of Ms. Brainy, Silkie/Cochin at Chicken Heaven On Earth
How to decide whether you need a heater in your hen house, pro's and con's of various heat sources, and if you decide you do need a heater we have a list of best buys on heaters for hen houses, coops, sheds, and barns.
Why you may need heat in your hen house
Many people do not use heater's in their hen houses during the winter months due to the fact that chickens can raise their body temperature to stay warm by eating more feed. It is a proven fact that colder than average temperatures, result in less egg production, illness, and frostbite. Due to skyrocketing feed and utilities cost it is now more economical to consider heating your hen house using solar power which will eliminate an electric bill, increase egg production, and reduce the amount of damage chickens suffer from frostbite. If you are raising meat birds under 3 weeks old your birds could get Ascites Syndrome (water belly)and die, if they get cold stress. If you are raising baby chicks you need to keep them warm or they will die-brooders should be kept at 95-100 degrees for the first two weeks of life and reduced 5 degrees each week until a month old.
Most standard breeds of chickens can withstand cold temperatures as long as they have an enclosed coop and good North wind block. How big your coop is and how many chickens you have in it can determine whether your birds will get too cold or not overnight. For example, if you only have a few hens and no rooster in a large hen house with no wind block your hens will probably get quite cold and could suffer frostbite or cold stress which can cause a loss in egg production, frostbite and even death. If you have many birds in a well ventilated hen house which can be closed off from the elements the chickens will huddle together to stay warm.
Pro's and con's of various types of heat, safety tips, compare quality, price, and you can even read customer reviews before you buy!
How much heat do you need for your coop?A normal adult chicken maintain's a body temperature of 105-107˚F (40.6 to 41.7˚C). The thermo-neutral zone is 65-75˚F (18-24˚C).Your hen house temperature should not go below 32 degrees F or above 85 degrees F. Keeping your coop between these temperatures will keep your chickens from getting too cold or too hot. Your chickens will stay healthier, be more comfortable, and will have less stress which means more eggs.When hen's get to cold or too hot they may slow egg production or stop altogether. How much heat you need for your coop depends on the size, the climate you live in, how many birds are in your hen house, and whether your coop is insulated or not. Insulation will keep your coop cooler in the summer and warmer during the winter months. The opening door for your coop should open from the South or East side. Doors that stay open during the day will let in too much cold air if they face the North. For large sheds, hen houses, coops and barns you may wish to consider industrial size heaters.Industrial Farm Heaters.
Safety first! If you decide to heat your coop with a heat lamp or other type of heater, put it in a secure hanging cage where the chickens cannot get on top of it or topple it and be sure to place it at least 3 feet from anything flammable.
How to tell if your coop is too cold or too hot for your chickens
You can use a temperature gauge to determine if your hen house temperature and humidity are at the correct levels. A good rule of thumb, If your chickens are panting, they are too hot. If your chickens are huddling together they are too cold. If you live in a warm climate where temperatures do not go below 32 degrees F. there is probably no need to worry about getting a heater for your hen house. However, if you live in an area where temps. drop below 32 degrees F. or you have had problems with your chickens developing frostbite, producing less eggs, and even dying from the cold-it is time to consider getting a heater for your hen house. You should keep an indoor thermometer inside your coop and check it daily so that your chickens do not get too hot, too cold, or are exposed to extreme temperature changes which can make them sick or worse. If your chickens get to cold they can easily develop symptoms of frostbite and can even die. Recommended year round temperature requirements for optimal egg production in laying hens is 21c or 75F degrees. It is important to monitor the humidity levels in poultry houses and chicken coops. Humidity levels should be between 40% and 60%. Too much moisture in the air can cause damp or wet litter/bedding which in turn can create high ammonia concentrations which lead to serious health issues such as, Cecal Coccidiosis, enteric disease, breathing and respiratory problems
Solar Powered Heat
Pro's-Solar electricity is an ideal way to heat and cool your coop because it saves you money on energy costs and is better for our environment.
Con's-However, it can also be very costly to get set up and if you do not have backup storage for reserved power or an alternative energy source, you will not have electricity on cloudy days. Solar powered generators or solar power kits are a very economical and easy way to get started using solar energy to power your lights, heating, and cooling needs in your coop as well as your home.
Flat panel heaters
Pro's-Chicken coop flat panel heaters are one of the safest ways to heat your hen house and if your energy source is from solar power you will find that they use less power than regular space heaters which means your power will last longer so your flat panel heaters will keep your chickens warm longer. There is less chances of your chickens getting overheated with flat panel heaters because if they get too warm they are able to simply move away from the heater. You can place the flat panel heaters on the wall behind their roosts so they will stay cozy warm. Saves on heating costs.
Uses less than 1/3 the electricity of conventional space heaters
Safe for children and pets
Con's-Cord's can get too hot. It is not advisable to use the flat panel heaters constantly. Make sure you turn them off once or twice a day to let them cool down and feel the cords several times a day to see if they are getting warm. If you use an extension cord make sure it is a very heavy duty one. From my experience heavy duty outdoor construction cords and RV extension cords work the best when running power to a chicken coop.
Another con is that most flat panel heaters are only designed to heat a small area and are not large enough to keep an 8 by 10 room warm.
Heat lamps usually come with brackets or mounts to hold them in place but we have heard many stories of heat lamps that have fallen into the hen house and started it on fire or broke the bulb. If a heat lamp is your only alternative be sure it is fastened securely using a chain and preferably high up and in a cage where it cannot be bumped, sat on, or knocked down. You can also use electrical fence wire to securely fasten your heat lamp to the inside of a metal cage and to fasten it to ceiling hooks.
Brooder lamps
Brooder lights with porcelain socket and clamps
Ceramic heaters
Ceramic heater's give off quite a bit of heat but usually need a fan to circulate the air and should be put in a place where they cannot be knocked over, sat on, or attract bedding.
Natural Gas Heat
Natural gas and propane heaters can be extremely harmful to adult chickens and deadly to baby chicks. A gas leak can kill a whole flock off in a matter of minutes. If this type of heat is used you should have the lines checked regularly. If you see your chickens gasping for air get them into fresh air immediately.
Central Heat
Most hen houses and coops do not have central heat. If you are thinking about putting central heat and air in your coop be sure that the filter's and intake are outside of the coop in a separate building. Vents will need to be high up and cleaned daily in order to keep your central heat and cooling unit working properly. (We have tried this).
Wood stoves
Wood stoves are not recommended for hen houses/chicken coops as they need to be watched, refilled and the temperature does not remain constant. If you have an area large enough that can be caged off. It is possible to use wood heat if you have a chimney. You should look for wood stoves that do not get hot on the outside and have vents at the top of the stove to release the heat into the room such as boxwood stoves which give off a more consistent heat and the fire is enclosed. At Chicken Heaven On Earth we have a three bedroom trailer house we use to heat our hen house and it keeps it quite nice for the chickens. We had to be careful with the placement of the stove and put it on the side where the wind would not blow the chimneys down, then we wired the chimneys up with electric fence wire to doubly secure them. One downfall s that if the coals are not built up it may require an extra trip to load the stove in the middle of the night.
Warning: Loose fly away bedding or hot coals can burn your hen house to the ground in minutes. Make sure that all ashes are handled with care. Clean the ashes out regularly to ensure your stove is operating at peak performance.
Propane Heat
Propane heater's can be used but are not recommended for small hen houses/coops as they can tip over easily and will create deadly fumes that can kill chickens in poorly ventilated area's.
Commercial Heat for Hen Houses
Most commercial egg producer's heat their hen houses using propane heater's. Buying propane in bulk makes it much cheaper to heat large area's. The reason they can get away with using propane is that the area's are generally much larger and well ventilated in comparison to the average backyard hen house.
Danger's associated with heating your hen house
Heat lamps can easily ignite hay and bedding and if used should be done so with extreme caution. Most come with mounts to put them where chickens cannot reach them, knock them over or sit on them.
Why you may need heat in your hen house
Many people do not use heater's in their hen houses during the winter months due to the fact that chickens can raise their body temperature to stay warm by eating more feed. It is a proven fact that colder than average temperatures, result in less egg production, illness, and frostbite. Due to skyrocketing feed and utilities cost it is now more economical to consider heating your hen house using solar power which will eliminate an electric bill, increase egg production, and reduce the amount of damage chickens suffer from frostbite. If you are raising meat birds under 3 weeks old your birds could get Ascites Syndrome (water belly)and die, if they get cold stress. If you are raising baby chicks you need to keep them warm or they will die-brooders should be kept at 95-100 degrees for the first two weeks of life and reduced 5 degrees each week until a month old.
Most standard breeds of chickens can withstand cold temperatures as long as they have an enclosed coop and good North wind block. How big your coop is and how many chickens you have in it can determine whether your birds will get too cold or not overnight. For example, if you only have a few hens and no rooster in a large hen house with no wind block your hens will probably get quite cold and could suffer frostbite or cold stress which can cause a loss in egg production, frostbite and even death. If you have many birds in a well ventilated hen house which can be closed off from the elements the chickens will huddle together to stay warm.
Pro's and con's of various types of heat, safety tips, compare quality, price, and you can even read customer reviews before you buy!
How much heat do you need for your coop?A normal adult chicken maintain's a body temperature of 105-107˚F (40.6 to 41.7˚C). The thermo-neutral zone is 65-75˚F (18-24˚C).Your hen house temperature should not go below 32 degrees F or above 85 degrees F. Keeping your coop between these temperatures will keep your chickens from getting too cold or too hot. Your chickens will stay healthier, be more comfortable, and will have less stress which means more eggs.When hen's get to cold or too hot they may slow egg production or stop altogether. How much heat you need for your coop depends on the size, the climate you live in, how many birds are in your hen house, and whether your coop is insulated or not. Insulation will keep your coop cooler in the summer and warmer during the winter months. The opening door for your coop should open from the South or East side. Doors that stay open during the day will let in too much cold air if they face the North. For large sheds, hen houses, coops and barns you may wish to consider industrial size heaters.Industrial Farm Heaters.
Safety first! If you decide to heat your coop with a heat lamp or other type of heater, put it in a secure hanging cage where the chickens cannot get on top of it or topple it and be sure to place it at least 3 feet from anything flammable.
How to tell if your coop is too cold or too hot for your chickens
You can use a temperature gauge to determine if your hen house temperature and humidity are at the correct levels. A good rule of thumb, If your chickens are panting, they are too hot. If your chickens are huddling together they are too cold. If you live in a warm climate where temperatures do not go below 32 degrees F. there is probably no need to worry about getting a heater for your hen house. However, if you live in an area where temps. drop below 32 degrees F. or you have had problems with your chickens developing frostbite, producing less eggs, and even dying from the cold-it is time to consider getting a heater for your hen house. You should keep an indoor thermometer inside your coop and check it daily so that your chickens do not get too hot, too cold, or are exposed to extreme temperature changes which can make them sick or worse. If your chickens get to cold they can easily develop symptoms of frostbite and can even die. Recommended year round temperature requirements for optimal egg production in laying hens is 21c or 75F degrees. It is important to monitor the humidity levels in poultry houses and chicken coops. Humidity levels should be between 40% and 60%. Too much moisture in the air can cause damp or wet litter/bedding which in turn can create high ammonia concentrations which lead to serious health issues such as, Cecal Coccidiosis, enteric disease, breathing and respiratory problems
Solar Powered Heat
Pro's-Solar electricity is an ideal way to heat and cool your coop because it saves you money on energy costs and is better for our environment.
Con's-However, it can also be very costly to get set up and if you do not have backup storage for reserved power or an alternative energy source, you will not have electricity on cloudy days. Solar powered generators or solar power kits are a very economical and easy way to get started using solar energy to power your lights, heating, and cooling needs in your coop as well as your home.
Flat panel heaters
Pro's-Chicken coop flat panel heaters are one of the safest ways to heat your hen house and if your energy source is from solar power you will find that they use less power than regular space heaters which means your power will last longer so your flat panel heaters will keep your chickens warm longer. There is less chances of your chickens getting overheated with flat panel heaters because if they get too warm they are able to simply move away from the heater. You can place the flat panel heaters on the wall behind their roosts so they will stay cozy warm. Saves on heating costs.
Uses less than 1/3 the electricity of conventional space heaters
Safe for children and pets
Con's-Cord's can get too hot. It is not advisable to use the flat panel heaters constantly. Make sure you turn them off once or twice a day to let them cool down and feel the cords several times a day to see if they are getting warm. If you use an extension cord make sure it is a very heavy duty one. From my experience heavy duty outdoor construction cords and RV extension cords work the best when running power to a chicken coop.
Another con is that most flat panel heaters are only designed to heat a small area and are not large enough to keep an 8 by 10 room warm.
Heat lamps usually come with brackets or mounts to hold them in place but we have heard many stories of heat lamps that have fallen into the hen house and started it on fire or broke the bulb. If a heat lamp is your only alternative be sure it is fastened securely using a chain and preferably high up and in a cage where it cannot be bumped, sat on, or knocked down. You can also use electrical fence wire to securely fasten your heat lamp to the inside of a metal cage and to fasten it to ceiling hooks.
Brooder lamps
Brooder lights with porcelain socket and clamps
- Make sure it has a heat Resistant Porcelain Socket
Ceramic heaters
Ceramic heater's give off quite a bit of heat but usually need a fan to circulate the air and should be put in a place where they cannot be knocked over, sat on, or attract bedding.
Natural Gas Heat
Natural gas and propane heaters can be extremely harmful to adult chickens and deadly to baby chicks. A gas leak can kill a whole flock off in a matter of minutes. If this type of heat is used you should have the lines checked regularly. If you see your chickens gasping for air get them into fresh air immediately.
Central Heat
Most hen houses and coops do not have central heat. If you are thinking about putting central heat and air in your coop be sure that the filter's and intake are outside of the coop in a separate building. Vents will need to be high up and cleaned daily in order to keep your central heat and cooling unit working properly. (We have tried this).
Wood stoves
Wood stoves are not recommended for hen houses/chicken coops as they need to be watched, refilled and the temperature does not remain constant. If you have an area large enough that can be caged off. It is possible to use wood heat if you have a chimney. You should look for wood stoves that do not get hot on the outside and have vents at the top of the stove to release the heat into the room such as boxwood stoves which give off a more consistent heat and the fire is enclosed. At Chicken Heaven On Earth we have a three bedroom trailer house we use to heat our hen house and it keeps it quite nice for the chickens. We had to be careful with the placement of the stove and put it on the side where the wind would not blow the chimneys down, then we wired the chimneys up with electric fence wire to doubly secure them. One downfall s that if the coals are not built up it may require an extra trip to load the stove in the middle of the night.
Warning: Loose fly away bedding or hot coals can burn your hen house to the ground in minutes. Make sure that all ashes are handled with care. Clean the ashes out regularly to ensure your stove is operating at peak performance.
Propane Heat
Propane heater's can be used but are not recommended for small hen houses/coops as they can tip over easily and will create deadly fumes that can kill chickens in poorly ventilated area's.
Commercial Heat for Hen Houses
Most commercial egg producer's heat their hen houses using propane heater's. Buying propane in bulk makes it much cheaper to heat large area's. The reason they can get away with using propane is that the area's are generally much larger and well ventilated in comparison to the average backyard hen house.
Danger's associated with heating your hen house
Heat lamps can easily ignite hay and bedding and if used should be done so with extreme caution. Most come with mounts to put them where chickens cannot reach them, knock them over or sit on them.
- We recommend using a metal chain to secure heater's in addition to the regular mounts as well as putting them in a cage ( hung at least 24 inches from the ceiling, far from bedding) pointing away from anything flammable).
- Important Note: Be sure to check walls, nests, bedding, etc. where the direction the heat lamp is pointing for hotness.
- Do not put any heater where chickens can get on top of it
- Important Note: Chickens should not have access to heater's. Place them high and put fencing between the chickens and the heater so they do not have access to the top to roost or cannot scratch bedding up into the heater.
Safety Tips for Heating Your Hen House or Chicken Coop
Safety Tips for Heating Hen House or Chicken Coop
Safety is the number 1 priority when considering how you are going to heat your hen house. Space heater's can easily cause a fire and if they get to hot on the outside they can even burn your chickens feet if they sit on them. Most space heater's have features that shut them off if they tip over and most have fans that can easily collect dust and bedding particles which can easily catch fire.
Other Helpful Items to Consider:
Fire Alarms
If you are using a heat source you need a fire alarm. One or two fire alarms should be installed in your hen house/chicken coop. Test batteries weekly.
Fire Extinguisher's
Fire extinguisher's should be kept inside and outside of your hen house or chicken coop in case of fire. Dates should be checked regularly and extinguisher's should be inspected regularly, at least once or twice a month.
Extension Cords
If you are running an extension cord to your coop to run lighting, heaters, fans or other things it is a good idea to use solar power or wind power to run them. If you have no choice but to run an extension cord to your coop the one I have found to be the safest is a 30 Amp RV extension cord with an adapter. Regular extension cords and even outdoor and construction cords can get too hot and start a fire in your coop. RV extension cords are made to carry heavier loads and I have run flat panel heaters, heat lamps, fans, and blowers using them without the cord getting hot.
Safety is the number 1 priority when considering how you are going to heat your hen house. Space heater's can easily cause a fire and if they get to hot on the outside they can even burn your chickens feet if they sit on them. Most space heater's have features that shut them off if they tip over and most have fans that can easily collect dust and bedding particles which can easily catch fire.
- Heater's should be high up and inside a cage so chickens cannot perch on them
- Electrical cords-Heater's should be plugged directly into a wall outlet and not to an extension cord or electrical cord with multiple outlets due to higher fire risks from overheated cords, melting, scorching or starting on fire. If you have to use an extension cord make sure it is a heavy duty construction cord or better and be sure to use a Thermo cube which will turn off the power if the cord gets too hot and turn it back on automatically when cords have safely cooled.
- Check heaters and cords daily for wear, damage or overheating.
- Use natural heating sources whenever possible such as surrounding your coop with hay bales when temps drop below freezing, hanging plastic two liter bottles with hot water in them near the roosts, insulating your coop, turn doors away from the North. Use insulated curtains over windows, then open curtains during the day and close them before sundown.
- Use heated hoses to keep large water barrels warm.
- Make sure coop is properly ventilated (no vents on the North side).
Other Helpful Items to Consider:
Fire Alarms
If you are using a heat source you need a fire alarm. One or two fire alarms should be installed in your hen house/chicken coop. Test batteries weekly.
Fire Extinguisher's
Fire extinguisher's should be kept inside and outside of your hen house or chicken coop in case of fire. Dates should be checked regularly and extinguisher's should be inspected regularly, at least once or twice a month.
Extension Cords
If you are running an extension cord to your coop to run lighting, heaters, fans or other things it is a good idea to use solar power or wind power to run them. If you have no choice but to run an extension cord to your coop the one I have found to be the safest is a 30 Amp RV extension cord with an adapter. Regular extension cords and even outdoor and construction cords can get too hot and start a fire in your coop. RV extension cords are made to carry heavier loads and I have run flat panel heaters, heat lamps, fans, and blowers using them without the cord getting hot.
