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Baby chicks have higher nutritional needs than adult chickens. There are basically four different types of baby chick feed to choose from. Which kind of chick feed you choose depends on how you plan to raise your chicks. There is non medicated chick starter feed which is formulated to meet your baby chicks vitamin and protein needs because baby chicks grow at a faster rate than adult birds.  Medicated chick starter feed is usually supplemented with Amprollium to prevent coccidiosis (a common illness in chickens which can cause sickness and death). Non GMO chick starter feed which contains no genetically modified plants during the preparation and processing of the feed. Organic chick starter feed is an all natural baby chick feed  that is USDA certified to be grown in soil that has not used pesticides or synthetic fertilizers. 
Giving a baby chick regular laying feed or scratch designed for adult chickens will not supply the chicks nutritional needs. Feeding your baby chick feed that does not supply the protein, vitamins and nutrients they need to help them grow could result in severe health issues such as wry neck syndrome, splayed legs, and even death. Baby chicks need a good starter feed in order to get a healthy start in life, to build strong bones and muscle.
Baby chicks need extra vitamins and electrolytes. It is a good idea to provide a vitamin and electrolyte supplement. Most can be added to the water or sprinkled over feed. I use DURVET vitamins and electrolytes for baby chicks, pullets and adults and it works very well. I noticed improvements in the birds overall appearance, and activity levels within a few hours. It really made a huge difference when I separated the chicks into two groups. I gave one group of baby chicks vitamin and electrolyte supplements and did not give them to the other group. The group that received the supplements grew faster, were more active, and were healthier even when they grew to adulthood.

Keep Baby Chicks Warm or They will die

Newly hatched baby chicks need to be kept in a temperature controlled environment in order to survive. Temperature should be maintained at 95F-100F degrees for the first week. Temperature should be reduced 5 degrees every week until they grow their feathers. You can use brooder lamps or brooder plates to accomplish this. I prefer the Brinsea EcoGlow Brooder because the baby chicks can huddle under it if they are cold and move away from it if they are too hot.

Baby Chick Water Tips

Baby chicks can die very quickly from water spills. Waterers should not be large enough that the chick can step in them. I use marbles or aquarium glass rocks in the water tray of my baby chick waterers. This prevents them from getting into the water, holds the water container steadier which lowers the chances of the water container being overturned, and allows them to get the water they need.

Tips About Brooders & Cages

Your baby chicks need to be housed safely.
Brooder Box
For the first few weeks your baby chicks should be kept in a brooder box where you can control the temperature. Brooder boxes prevent the baby chicks from escaping. You would be amazed at how some smart baby chicks can squeeze out of the tiniest openings.
The Problem with using Cardboard boxes for Baby Chick Brooders-Many people keep their baby chicks in cardboard boxes as they are disposable and the chicks cannot get out. The problem with cardboard boxes and heat is that there is an extreme chance of starting a fire, especially if you are using a brooder lamp for heat. Dry cardboard can ignite when it gets too hot.
Brooder lamp safety tip-Brooder lamps usually come with a clamp. Do not depend on the clamp. Only get brooder lamps that have porcelain fittings for the light bulb, plastic will melt over time. Wire the brooder lamp in a cage that has a metal bottom and do not put it in the same cage as your baby chicks. If a brooder lamp falls from it's clamp it will fry your baby chicks and can easily start a fire. Brooder heating plates are much safer.
Pet Cages
Baby chicks should not be kept in a cage because they may be able to squeeze out of the openings between the bars. If you do decide to use a pet cage, you can secure it by attaching hardware cloth to all sides. Baby chicks will quickly outgrow their brooder box and will need to be placed in a grower cage to allow them more room to get more exercise but they still need protection. Many brooder boxes and grower cages do not have a top on them, which does not make sense to me because this leaves baby chicks unprotected from possible predators and accidents. Wherever you decide to keep the chicks they need to be protected on all sides including top and bottom and their brooder, coop, or cage  needs to be well ventilated. Once my baby chicks grow feathers I use a rabbit cage to keep them in at night or a grower cage. I put a small chicken coop in a covered area outdoors and near my flock. I put them in the outdoor coop during the day and my existing flock gets a chance to meet them. The problem I have discovered about many coops you can buy online is that they do not hold up to inclement weather so I make sure mine are under a patio type covering I make with wood and tin to protect the cage or I bring the cages indoors in bad weather. My baby chicks love the freedom and get plenty of exercise in these small coops with runs. ​
Brooder heat plates
Much safer than heat lamps, most allow you to adjust the height as the baby chicks grow.