Signs, symptoms and treatments for frostbite in chickens and how you can protect your chickens from getting frostbite. Watch our featured video showing treatment for feet frostbite in chickens. Best buys on heaters and deicers for chicken coops and chicken waterers.
Yes, chickens can get frostbite. The best way to keep them from getting frostbite is prevention but if you think your chicken may already have frostbite these symptoms and treatments will help. Some chickens like to play in the cold and snow while other's prefer to hang out in the hen house or coop in cold weather. Most heartier breed chicken (except ones that have been kept indoors in a controlled temperature environment) can keep themselves warm because their bodies are naturally designed to create warmth. Even tho, they have this natural ability they are still in danger of getting frostbite on their combs, wattles, legs and feet which can cause deformities (Parts or all of combs and wattles can freeze and fall off) and lameness (Legs and feet can freeze and cause lameness and even toes falling off in extreme cases) in chickens and other poultry. See signs, symptoms, and treatment for frostbite below.
Catching signs of frostbite in chickens early is crucial. If you find frostbite in your chickens it will take 4 to 6 weeks of daily treatments to get them well again. If your chicken actually loses toes or their feet, they will learn to adapt without their toes or a missing foot so do not kill them.
Signs & Symptoms of Frostbite in Chickens are:
Blue or darkened comb and wattles (Males and Breeds with large combs are usually first and most likely to get frostbite because of the larger combs and wattles).
Missing parts on combs, wattle's, legs and feet
Stiffness in legs or feet
Blistering
Limping (if your chicken is limping from frostbite the chicken may live but the lame limping condition will most likely be permanent).
Frozen or dark coloring of legs or toes
Hens stay on the nest even when not broody or laying an egg
Loss of appetite
Reluctant to come outside of the hen house or coop
Signs & Symptoms of Frostbite in Chickens are:
Blue or darkened comb and wattles (Males and Breeds with large combs are usually first and most likely to get frostbite because of the larger combs and wattles).
Missing parts on combs, wattle's, legs and feet
Stiffness in legs or feet
Blistering
Limping (if your chicken is limping from frostbite the chicken may live but the lame limping condition will most likely be permanent).
Frozen or dark coloring of legs or toes
Hens stay on the nest even when not broody or laying an egg
Loss of appetite
Reluctant to come outside of the hen house or coop
Chickens can get frostbite when exposed too long to temperatures below 32 degree's F. Their combs and wattles can turn bluish colored, eyes closed but sometimes are frozen while open. Several people have asked us to find out what happened to their hens which died on the nest during a cold spell. We put outdoor wind block shelters around the property, heat in the hen houses and coops, insulated the hen house, and put hay around the outside of the hen house/coop and runs. We also use chicken sweaters, and put vaseline or Vicks vapor rub on all of their combs, wattles, and feet. If temps drop below 32 degrees F we do not let our chickens outdoors until the temps rise about 40 degrees F. Always keep an eye on the weather so you can make preparations in advance to keep your chickens warm.
Hay can be used in and around the nest boxes and in and around the hen house. Hay works as a natural wind barrier and insulator. If your hens still show signs of distress and symptoms of possible frost bite you should get some insulation and heat in the hen house. Heating your hen house or coop can reduce the amount of feed that your chickens eat in the winter months (they eat more to generate body heat), increase egg production (egg production goes down if they are too cold), and provide them, and reduce the chances of frostbite.
Hay can be used in and around the nest boxes and in and around the hen house. Hay works as a natural wind barrier and insulator. If your hens still show signs of distress and symptoms of possible frost bite you should get some insulation and heat in the hen house. Heating your hen house or coop can reduce the amount of feed that your chickens eat in the winter months (they eat more to generate body heat), increase egg production (egg production goes down if they are too cold), and provide them, and reduce the chances of frostbite.
At CHOE our chickens live in their own 3 bedroom trailer house and we use a small BOX wood stove for heat and have had no incidences of frostbite. In our smaller coops we use heat lamps wired to cages and flat panel heaters.
Motherhen's Tip of the Day: Protecting Your Chickens from Fire in The Coop
Fire Alarms should be used in hen houses and coops. If you are using a heat source or electricity you need a fire alarm. One or two fire alarms should be installed in your hen house/chicken coop. Put any heaters or heat lamps inside a large bird cage. Make sure it is placed high enough that birds cannot perch on it and that it is at least 3 feet from anything flammable.--Motherhen
Fire Alarms should be used in hen houses and coops. If you are using a heat source or electricity you need a fire alarm. One or two fire alarms should be installed in your hen house/chicken coop. Put any heaters or heat lamps inside a large bird cage. Make sure it is placed high enough that birds cannot perch on it and that it is at least 3 feet from anything flammable.--Motherhen